I’d always heard that Austin is a fun city. In high school I even briefly flirted with the idea of attending the University of Texas at Austin, based on this reputation. Last month, at long last, I went there for the Austin City Limits music festival, and, OH MY GOD did it live up to the hype. I had such a great time (yeee-hawww)!

This was my first time in Texas, and I was psyched. Redneck stereotypes be damned, all the Texas people I know are universally cool folks—and because state pride is indoctrinated in their youth, they all rep hard. I first flew into Waco, to meet my girl Sheryl (she lives in DC now but grew up there, and was visiting family). She showed me around her hometown, from Koehne Park’s scenic view of Lake Waco…

…to the Waco Suspension Bridge, which is actually the model for the Brooklyn Bridge (both were designed by the same architect).

While it was cold and rainy in DC that week, in Texas it was a sunny 80 degrees! From Waco, Sheryl and I excitedly drove to Austin. The city’s unofficial motto is “Keep Austin Weird,” reflecting its laid-back, artsy, come-as-you-are vibe. At every turn there was live music, art, kitsch and color. The city pulsed with youthful energy.


In our day and a half before ACL, we meandered through funky shops and art galleries, including a costume/vintage store called Lucy in Disguise…

…the expansive music store Waterloo Records…

and several cowboy boot retailers. I was dying for a pair, but too expensive for my blood.

On our first night in town, we caught the flight of the bats from underneath Congress Avenue Bridge: hundreds of thousands of bats (1.5 million at the peak of bat-watching season) that take off, like clockwork, every nightfall.

All at once, a seemingly endless stream flew out into the city. We stayed for about 20 minutes, and the swarm didn’t let up one bit. And near the University of Texas, I had a chuckle seeing this cheesesteak spot called Texadelphia (HA)!

As for authentic local fare, I leaned to Tex-Mex, mostly tacos (my favorite: smoked brisket with avocado, jalepenos and cilantro from Torchy’s Tacos). Austin is also big on the food truck trend, with hip street vendors everywhere (such as The Mighty Cone, where I had crunchy deep-fried chicken and avocado in a handy tortilla).

At a gorgeous lakeside restaurant, The Oasis, I had amazing crawfish enchiladas stuffed with spinach, cream cheese and mushrooms (delicious, but not particularly photogenic). But check out the restaurant’s extremely photogenic view of Lake Travis!

Then, it was time for Austin City Limits at Zilker Park. Three days. Eight stages. One hundred-thirty bands. It was bananas.

Even though I caught more bands than I can remember, I just counted each day as one concert (towards #14 on my list). Some highlights:

Vampire Weekend (Catchy tunes that had me boppin’ around way more than I expected.)

deadmau5 (Dance party—with a light show! And a giant mouse head!)

Matt and Kim (The music was just okay, but their smiley energy was infectious.)

Sonic Youth (Okay, they sucked, but for music history’s sake I checked them out.)

M.I.A. (Fun, but it wasn’t because she put on an amazing performance or anything. I was just pretty inebriated during her set.)

Trombone Shorty and Orleans Avenue (My favorite of the whole festival; they rocked the crowd like nobody else. And we were in the front row!)

Flaming Lips (The show was characteristically “zany,” but the performance was a little too rambling for me to get into. Luckily, they did play “She Don’t Use Jelly!”)
Then there were the friendly folks I met all along the way. Americans are often described as career-obsessed consumerists who don’t know how to enjoy life. This may be true of New York City and D.C., but there are other parts of the country where generally people slow down and take it easy. I’m so grateful to have had that experience in Austin!
